Fellow travellers

Yellowstone. Glacier. Grand Teton. Redwood. Sequoia/Kings Canyon. Yosemite. Lassen. Sierra NF. Trinity NF. Six Rivers NF. Klamath NF. California coast. Crater Lake. Oregon desert. Oregon coast. Siuslaw NF. Tillamook SF. Mt. Hood. Mt. Rainier. Mt. Saint Helens. Wenatche NF. Craters of the Moon. Sawtooth NF. Boise NF. Bitterroot NF. Lolo NF. Kaniksu NF. Kootenai NF. Flathead NF. Lewis and Clark NF. Gallatin NF. Custer NF. Beaverhead-Deerlodge NF. Helena NF. Payette NF. Shoshone NF. Teton NF. Targhee NF. Chippewa NF. Badlands. Custer. Black Hills NF. Theodore Roosevelt. Superior NF. Porcupine Mountains SP. Ottawa NF. Polar vortex’s, monsoons, droughts, floods, wildfires, wildlife poachers, bears, earthquakes, tens of thousands of miles of two tracks and gravel forest roads, and many other state parks, forests, and campgrounds too numerous to mention.

In all of this, not once was I left stranded. Not once.

My mind, my thoughts, were always about the destination. But this car? It was the places in-between.

Goodbye old friend. It would bring me great joy to see you on the road again one day. Even better, I hope you pass me.

Michael Hodges author writer fiction

Do you hate your state? New Gallup poll reveals all.

Yesterday, Gallup released a fascinating new poll focusing on state satisfaction. The big polling question? If you could leave your state, would you?

50% of Illinois residents answered “yes”, making it the least popular state among its residents. Connecticut was right behind at 49%, with Maryland next at 47%.

Leading the “positive” states were Montana, Hawaii, and Maine, each with 23% of respondents saying they’d like to leave.

As someone who does a bit of traveling (particularly in the lower 48), I’m not at all surprised by these numbers. Illinois is easy enough to explain. 4 of the last 7 governors have been imprisoned, and there may even be two still in jail. To tell you the truth I lost track.

Illinois residents outside of Chicago seem gruff, unhappy. And it may very well be the brutal weather that makes them this way. Chicago is the murder capitol of the world, frozen like the Arctic core in winter, and steam-roomed all summer, both depressing and frying the residents. Add to this an unsettling lack of open spaces and scenery, and you have a grim picture.

That’s not to say that Illinois doesn’t have its great features. The state, like its weather, has two extremes, north and south: the cultural epic that is Chicago, a wonderful, vibrant city, and the Shawnee National Forest at the southern tip. Everything else effuses an almost apocalyptic vibe, from pesticide-soaked corn fields, to Big Ag, to hundreds of miles of strip malls and concrete sprawl oozing from Chicago like molten silver. Some would suggest visiting the “country” by taking a two hour trip into the corn. That’s not country, folks. That’s Agricultural Industry. Country is where the roads start thinning out, where things get wilder. “Country” contains roadless areas.

This isn’t Illinois’ fault. We did this. Illinois was once home to lush meadows and clean rivers, with elk grazing under a clear night sky. Unchecked development has decimated quality of life in the state. In the suburbs, what’s left of the tiny open lands are sold off for office parks or new housing. There is zero respect for open spaces. And, of course, all of this is contagious.

I also spend a lot of time in western states like Montana, Oregon and Wyoming-states that placed high in popularity in the Gallup poll. One thing springs to mind when contrasting these popular states to the least popular, and that is balance. Chicago is five hours from the nearest national forest. Missoula Montana? Ten minutes. Portland, Oregon? Similar. When residents of Portland wake up in the morning, they see Mount. Hood rising 11,250 feet above the landscape, a spectacular and sober reminder there’s more to this world than chain stores, concrete, and strip malls. There is no such reminder in Northern Illinois (the state’s population for the most part). What you see there is what you get, and your life, as such, becomes defined by materialism. How could it not be? And if you buy into this material acquisition mindset, and you aren’t wealthy, well, you’re going to be unhappy.

50% of Illinois residents that bought in, now want to buy-out.

Last winter, I drove from Montana, down from the Rockies and across the great prairie to Northern Illinois. Almost all of the drive was pleasant. However, after crossing the Illinois border, I was hit with a series of expensive tolls. And the roads were rougher than all previous 1400 miles. The air, too, stung my throat and eyes. As I headed towards the western suburbs, all around me loomed a dystopian landscape, with massive power lines dissecting the horizon. Tract housing and strip malls stole away whatever open spaces were left, and soon, that’s all there was. After entering this sea of sprawl my mind began to behave differently. I saw only my daily path from store to store and office to office. Gone were the big things, the grand things, the things that make you think about things that aren’t you.

I remember one morning in Missoula, looking out Hastings Coffee Shop, enjoying my coffee. Sure, I was in the middle of a strip mall. Cars roared past on the avenue. But out there, just above the rooftops and stores loomed the mountains of the Lolo National Forest. I wasn’t able to visit them that day, but sometimes, just knowing you can is enough.

Burns, snags, and blighted places.

Recovering Forest

Amongst the outdoor crowd, these places are often avoided, whispered about as “unsightly”, and left for the animals. I don’t feel that way. Although I enjoy nothing more than verdant forest and mountain streams, there’s a certain sincerity to these fire recovery zones. This sincerity is rooted in the truth of Earth. We were born of fire and ash. This is a violent, devastating, volcanic planet.

Hikers who encounter a burn recovery zone are not witnessing an outlier, or death. What they see is a birth.

I’ll gladly spend all day amongst these silver snags, fishing, daydreaming and hiking. These recovery zones are warmer, and often you can find me basking on a rock like an albino lizard. They also make great grasshopper habitat, and thus the streams are rife with the sound of bony trout jaws smacking crunchy grasshoppers. If one is a fly-fisherman, a hopper pattern would be a good bet here.

Hikers often pass right through recovery zones, not bothering with photos. They’ll continue on to greener, non-burned forests, where they’ll pop selfies. You’ll never find these snags in their photo albums. “Too unsightly”, they’ll say. Or ugly.

But black bears don’t mind, nor various species of woodpeckers. And neither do I. If you’re ever in the mountains, and you see a lunatic lounging about one of these recovery zones, offer a friendly wave and he’ll wave back. And maybe, stick around for a bit. You may find this aesthetic the most pleasing of them all.

Snags

A fire recovery zone, Bob Marshall Wilderness, Montana.

The Inland Temperate Rainforest: A Museum of Now

The Inland Temperate Rainforest stretches from northwestern Montana to Idaho, and on to Washington. Very few people even know it exists. But that doesn’t make it any less special. In this unique forest you’ll find rare grizzly bears, wolverine, threatened lynx, and the endangered mountain caribou. Almost all of the flora and fauna prior to European settlement still exist here. It’s not all good news, however. This ecosystem is threatened by road-building, and the grizzly bear population is so tenuous that augmentation is required to keep it hanging on. Most of the grizzlies live high up in the Purcell-Cabinet Mountains, foraging along the steep slopes and avalanche chutes. They are remarkable creatures, requiring space free of human development. The same can be said for the wolverine.

Most of the Purcell-Cabinet rainforest ecosystem is federal public land. For some, the phrase raises a big question mark (national forests and parks are a long way off for some people). For others, it elicits chills. Our National Parks and National Forests cradle the last roadless areas and in some cases protect a full array of native flora and fauna. In a way, these places are the most fascinating museums you’ll ever find.

It always puzzles me how people can spend all day inside the Field Museum of Natural History, staring at what is gone, while driving past (or not even having a basic understanding) of our living, current museums. While the value of the Field Museum of Natural History is undoubtedly high, one could make the case that our living museums are even higher. For here is a world that still exists, with creatures barely hanging on.

At this museum, you’ll feel the pinch of a mosquito rather than reading about the pinch. In this museum, the plants and trees give off oxygen. In this museum, that pair of eyes staring back at you may be powered by a functioning nervous system and a thrumming heart. In this museum, you can explain to your kids that what they are seeing is not a simulation or an app–that what stalks there lives and breathes just like they do, that there are no Dodo birds here. Not yet, anyway.

Go ahead, hop over that velvet rope barricade or slip on under. Get your shoes muddy, sweat a little. This exhibit is as real as it gets. It’s waiting for you, like it always has.

Montana-Inland-Temperate-Rainforest-creek-2-h

White-tailed buck

While in Montana over the fall and winter of 2013, I had the privilege of filming the white-tailed deer rut. The deer are not as cautious as usual, as they are focused on mating. I spent days with these gracious creatures, rising with the sun and leaving as it disappeared. After a while, I picked up on the deer’s rhythms, and maybe they picked up on mine.

This big buck decided to stop and pose for me in the teasel. Already I’m counting the days until I can return to the Northern Rockies. A person can still be homeless, even with a roof over their head.

Hoss-Buck