First Impressions

First impressions are everything.

You’ve heard the saying. It could apply to numerous things: personality, hygiene, fashion sense (low on the pole), or leadership. Even more important is consistency of impressions. That person or place that can shock and awe you time and time again. The place you never get sick of, the person you never grow tired of. Perhaps it’s your favorite CD or book. The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly is my favorite film of all time. I could keep it on the background all day. Between the quasi-psychedelic soundtrack, exceptional cinematography, and strong characterization, I simply never tire of it. It doesn’t hurt that I like the scenery, either.

I used to know a girl who, when walking into a room, could hush the crowd with her presence. She wasn’t a swimsuit model, but had a beautiful smile and a certain energy that others gravitated to. She had more than her fair share of admirers and suitors, which she turned away with charm and class.

Then there are the places. Some making amazing impressions, some not so much. Like Midway Airport versus a national park.

Each year, I travel to the places that blow me away with consistency. The Gallatin National Forest. Glacier National Park. Grand Teton National Park. I remember traveling with an ex-girlfriend (she’s still a very good friend) back in 2001. Our goal was to see the Northern Rockies. We’d traveled a long way across Wyoming, through high desert,and counted four cars in three hours. We passed the Hoback River, and made our way into Jackson, Wyoming. We kept asking ourselves where the Tetons were, because we had heard so much about them. The hype was immense. Top ten national park immense. We drove north on highway 26 towards the park, but still could not see the much-hyped Tetons. It didn’t help that East Gros Ventre Butte loomed to our left, blocking our view. But when the butte gave way to the land beyond, the Teton appeared at once, screaming to the sky in cold, chiseled granite. We had cried out in shock, and then laughed just as hard. It turned out the hype was true. The range was stunning, far beyond anything we had imagined (and this was coming from a couple who had just been to Colorado).

Every year I try to go back there, and each time I’m no less impressed as East Gros Ventre Butte gives way to what it has always given way to.

Yet each year I search for more first impressions. From people I’d like to get to know better, to animals I may encounter to landscapes that will forever imprint upon my mind and spirit. I drive to them, I walk to them, compelled. Maybe, just maybe a few will live up to the hype.

theend

Sunset at Oxbow Bend in Grand Teton.

The eagle

Every winter, hundreds of bald eagles travel south down the Mississippi corridor to the open waters along the dams. Many of these dams are along the Iowa/Illinois border.

I’ve tried to put to words the things that make bald eagles majestic. Is it the golden beak? The contrast of head feathers with the chest and wing plumage? Or is it the seemingly effortless flight? In fiction, eagles have always been symbols of reverence, majesty, and spirituality. They are held above common things and places. So what makes them seem that way in real life, too?

Perhaps it is none of those things. Maybe it’s because when I see a bald eagle, it’s usually in clean, wild places.

soaring-bald-eagle

The Story of Silver the Grizzly Bear

Silver the grizzly bear waves hello. October 9, 2012:

silver-wave-grizzly-bear

I’ve seen a lot of incredible things in my travels across the Rocky Mountains. But those travels always turn back to the Northern Rockies, from Grand Teton National Park to Glacier National Park. Why am I drawn there? Biodiversity. Abundance of lakes and rivers (they shame the southern Rockies in this context), valleys that are more prairie than dessert. The Northern Rockies contain almost all of the animals prior to European settlement. Yellowstone still has bison. Glacier still has wolverines. Both places still have the formidable grizzly.

I first saw Silver a few years ago in Glacier National Park. At that point she was a small cub (as small as grizzlies get I suppose). She was playing with her mother in a field of flowers, a royal blue lake as a backdrop. I remember how she put her paw on her mother’s rump as she check me out. Her distinct facial markings and chest pattern were hard to miss.

A year or so later I was sad to learn that her mother had become pregnant again, which is very rare while raising a cub. She chased Silver away. The good news is Silver had been taught well. She knows where and how to find food. She also ceaselessly follows her mother and new cub up and down the mountains. She wants to feed with them. She wants to play with them. Most of the time her mother growls at her and chases her off. But there are moments, there are scenes where her mother accepts Silver, and you can see mother, cub, and estranged, huge cub (Silver) grazing in close proximity on the same slope.

If Silver’s mom gets out of her sight, Silver will huff and panic and run in the direction she thinks she went. I guess you could call it abandonment anxiety or separation anxiety. Or maybe she just missed her mother in those rugged mountains. It broke my heart to watch her mother and the new cub sprint away from Silver as she was dozing off on a boulder. Silver woke, stood on her hind legs, sniffed the air, then huffed into a panic down the slope. Remarkably, her nose was so good she bounded off in the same direction her mother went, even though it was deep into a forest.

Silver also has young friend. His name is Choco, and he’s a pretty great swimmer. There was talk that perhaps Choco and Silver might den up over the winter.

Choco-grizzly-bear-swim

Stay tuned for more photos of Silver, Choco, and her mother. Will Silver find peace? Has she denned with Choco? Inquiring minds want to know, lol.

A Path amongst Ghosts

My first visit to California had a profound effect on me. I was expecting pavement and endless strip malls after I passed through a produce examining station (invasive species prevention) on the California/Oregon border. What I saw instead was amazing. Unfolding ahead of me was endless forest, with trees taller than any I had ever seen. This went on for miles, and was capped by a 14,000 foot mountain that rose above an interstate which sat at a mere 4,000 feet.

Ah yes, forests. I grew up in Illinois. There was often talk of the mythical Northwoods and the endless forests of northern Wisconsin and Michigan. We’d take trips up there, enjoying the summers and the cool, inviting lakes. The locals (and tourists from Chicago) spoke of these magnificent forests. What I learned over time was that most of the Northwood’s old growth forest is gone.

As in 99% gone.

All the big, old trees had been cut. What remained was “nice”, but not robust. And now cabins with tacky fertilized lawns dot the shores of almost every major lake.

What the Northwoods became was a tame go cart track made for motor sports enthusiasts like snowmobilers and off-roaders. There’s nothing wrong with either in moderation, but rather a landscape that is not intact enough to avoid hearing such things if one so chooses.

I was shocked at Northern California, for it is what I imagined the Northwoods would look like after all the hype from Midwesterners. But that Northwoods forest is largely gone, replaced by second and third growth hardwoods. The big white pines are now few and far between, and you are never more than a stone’s throw from some kind of road or the roar of a snowmobile.

My admiration of the California forests—the size of the trees and the expansive national forests themselves—only grew when I visited the southern portion of the state and Sequoia/Kings Canyon National Park. Yes, I had to drive past congestion and dead malls and everything I had feared, but California still had this striking balance that I wasn’t quite used to in the Midwest. To be in a national park or national forest after only a short drive is something we Midwesterners simply cannot do.

I still make the occasional run to the Northwoods, usually on the way back from a place like Montana. I notice the names of local establishments up there. Places like “The Wilderness Resort”, where there is no wilderness. Or places like “Moose’s Tavern”, where there are no moose. I feel as if I’m on a path amongst ghosts.

But not in the forests of California. For there, legends still exist.

giantdeer

Winter, facebook, and moose. But not necessarily in that order.

Taking a forty day road trip break from my novel turned out to be….interesting. The good news is distance helps perspective. The bad news is that you vacate your character’s heads. So I’m back at it, and doing things to the story I probably wouldn’t have done before, using that perspective to my advantage. The working title is Without, and it’s chock full of poachers, private investigators, critters, mythology, and adventure. I hope to have the first draft complete by December 15th. Whew.

Oh, and I finally started a Facebook page. Why? Peer pressure. I couldn’t begin to count the scrunched up faces on my western trip when asked if I had a Facebook page. So at last I have one, as of three days ago. Feel free to stop by. I’m especially pleased that Grand Teton National Park featured one of my photos on their page. A good start to my Facebook experience. If you’re reading this, you know I love public land, especially national parks and forests. I’d place Grand Teton in a top five national park list, easily. Grand Teton was my introduction to the Northern Rockies many years ago, and the majestic landscape has inspired me ever since.

There’s a hell of a lot going on right now. I do feel tremendous pressure, but I’d rather have that than no pressure at all. The December issue of Penumbra Magazine will be out in a few days, and with it my story “Seven Fish for Sarah”, which I’m quite proud of. Beyond that, my eerie tale of a retired miner facing the Appalachian winter is due in The Old, Weird South Anthology(Storm Fronts).

As always my focus remains on novels. I’ll continue work on Without, while touching up two other novels.

And we can all agree that naps in the sun are underrated: